North Wales in September is magic. The sun is still warm and the light lingers late into the evening in a defiant last stand against autumn's inevitable turn. The hoards of August holidaymakers have returned to their city lives leaving the towns, beaches, and coastal paths splendidly uncluttered for those of us lucky enough to remain. The lanes are lined with plump ripe blackberries and the orchards are heavy with late summer fruit. The big skies, changing seas, slow pace, and ancient roots of this place make the process of switching off easy - I mean, who could remember to check their email when looking out at a scene like this?