Best of Sydney

Yesterday morning over mugs of tea Mr. Spring and I sat in our packed-up apartment and made a list. The 10 things we love about Sydney. It’s impossible not to get at least a little bit reflective on the eve of a big move. After all, it’s been an incredible year living in Darlinghurst in the midst of the city buzz… And besides, we are the sentimental type! So here’s our ode… from me and him to Sydney town. I’d love to know what you love about this place too, whether you’ve been, stayed, or are still lucky enough to call Sydney home.

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The perfect weekend chez Spring comes down to a pretty simple formula. There should be sunshine, somewhere to explore, the chance to learn something new, plenty of wide open space, lovely ambience, and delicious snacks. Delicious snacks served with tea in bone china and a free Herald crossword if I’m going to be picky.

Vaucluse House ticks all the boxes; after our visit this Saturday it’s officially become my favourite Sydney historic home. The grounds are expansive enough to feel like a proper escape from the bustle of the inner suburbs, although Vaucluse is only a short bus trip from city. The rambling Gothic house has been done up beautifully and the informal guided tours are great value at $8. On top of all that charming historic goodness, the tea rooms are pretty as a picture postcard and serve up a lovely salad/mountain of scones, jam, and cream.

If you’re going to be in Sydney on the weekend of Nov 2-4 and feel drawn to historic buildings, gardens, tea rooms, etc… check out Open Sydney 2012 to find out which of the city’s ‘off-limits’ architectural icons you might like to poke your nose around for free!

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(Elizabeth Farm Parramatta, with Australia’s first olive tree out front)

What a beautiful Labour Day long weekend we’ve had!  To capitalise on the incredible summery sunshine we decided to play tourists in our own town with a cruise up the Parramatta River to Elizabeth Farm. Elizabeth Farm is Australia’s oldest surviving homestead but since the house has been re-furnished with reproduction antiques, tools, and games, you can wander around freely, touch everything, and make yourself at home. There’s also a lovely cafe in a side garden and just down the hill Hambledon Cottage houses many of the Macarthur family’s original period treasures.

This weekend it was a bit of peace and quiet we were after, maybe a spot of cream tea, a look around a few convict built sites of historical significance and, ideally, respite from the plane trees which are everywhere in the City of Sydney and seem to have sprouted a truly malevolent allergen in the last couple of days! Parramatta came up trumps on every front. I’m glad we test drove the experience because next time we’re looking to entertain out-of-town guests we’ll have this fabulous day trip (as well as the Blue Mountains) to pull out of our hats!

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{Best in Show: ‘milk chocolate and peanut butter fudge’ & peanut butter cheesecake’ from Messina Gelato, Darlinghurst & Surry Hills}

A change has come over Sydney in the past week or so. A sultry change. Mr. Spring complains about perspiring through his suit on the walk to work but I couldn’t be happier. (If I had wanted to spend life encased in a sweatpants, jumpers, and fleece blankets against the baltic temperatures  in my own living room… well… I might have stayed in Canada.)

When it comes to the ‘rules of summer’, enjoying a beautiful ice cream on a hot day has to very nearly top the list. And when it comes to the flavour that defines summer 2012, I’ve got it sorted. Peanut butter ice cream is my latest fixation and nothing tastes more wonderful! It’s true that my new found inability to turn down at trip to the gelateria is a complete anathema to summer’s more body conscious, skin barring styles… and that goes double for the skinny white jeans I picked up at Zara last week! But hey, I’m gonna get it while it’s hot… Take these heady days and squeeze the most pleasure possible right from the start! ‘Cause you know we’ll be back to falling leaves and fireside nights all in the blink of an eye.

What are you ‘rules’ for making the most out of summer right from the start?

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Tucked away in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, Springwood was the provocative Australian artist Norman Lindsay’s country retreat. Now The Norman Lindsay Gallery, the  property houses the rambling old cottage-turned-gallery, workshops, and a cafe. There are also statue gardens, an over-grown outdoor bathing pool, and pretty vine covered pergolas. Lindsay and his wife Rose took up residence at Springwood in 1911 and their infamously lavish jazz parties became a mecca for local and international artists, writers, socialites and stars. I have to admit to not being the biggest fan of Lindsay’s painted catalogue of nymphs and fairies. Still, the Norman Lindsay Gallery is worth a visit because of the important part the house and it’s avant garde residents played in shaking up the once stultifying Australian cultural scene. And the gardens are beautiful no matter what your taste in art.

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I wish I had my own veggie patch – and a green thumb too – but as it is the local farmers market is where I find out what’s in season and fresh from the ground. I love the idea of shortening the distance food travels from the earth to my table and I want to support Australian farmers growing beautiful food the right way – without chemicals. That’s why it’s disappointing that sellers at so many markets just seem to pick up their produce at the same international food terminals as the big grocers do.

For slow foodies and urbanites looking to make a connection with regional farmers and artisianal producers, the Sydney Sustainable Markets are the real deal. In an area known for hipsters and up-all-night party people, organic fruit and veg aren’t what you’d normally expect to find at Taylor Square first thing on a Saturday morning. But the village square atmosphere of the weekly markets brings out another side of the community by providing the perfect setting for a leisurely browse of all the ingredients and goodies on offer. It’s where I find inspiration for what to cook during the week. And as the weather warms, it’s the ideal place to stock up on picnic fare before catching an Oxford St. bus to Bondi.

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{Best Blue Mountains Walks: the Pulpit Rock Track (3 hours return): Begin at Govetts Leap car park on the outskirts of Blackheath, just 15 minutes along the Great Western Highway from Katoomba. Can you spot the pulpit?!}

On Saturday morning Mr. Spring and I got up at 5am for a day’s escape to the Blue Mountains. I’ve already documented my new found love of the area here and here but today I want to share the track that’s become my fast favourite. I promise it ticks every bush walk box – including wrapping up in plenty of time for a fireside lunch back in town. It was well worth dragging ourselves out of Sydney so early since we had the entire path – and all its lookouts – completely to ourselves. As someone who does sometimes feel hemmed in by city life there’s no better remedy than getting amongst this… creeks, waterfalls, caves, a little mud, a lot of wind, and stunning, soaring views.

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Driving home from a recent Canberra weekend I looked over at a very relaxed Mr. Spring and realised we’d just had our first night away since moving to Sydney at the beginning of the year. We do lots of day trips, but this was a bit different. I loved hitting the road without a thought to the usual weekend chores and no plans other than catching up with a good friend and treating ourselves to time spent together.

So here’s my recipe for the perfect Canberra weekend: Take time driving through the rolling wintery countryside, stop in at pretty towns like Berrima and the mysterious Lake George lookout ◊ Make the most of every meal somewhere amazing* ◊ Wander through a small gallery ◊ Stroll from bridge to bridge around Lake Burley Griffin ◊ Enjoy one perfect night’s sleep in a room with an enormous bathtub, central heating, sweeping lake and mountain views, and crucially, someone else to do all the tidying up!

* The Canberra weekend turned into a bit of a food fest thanks to a series of great restaurant recommendations from a local friend. I can heartily recommend breakfast at The Old Magpie Cafe, Berrima, lunch at Silo Bakery, Canberra, dinner at The Urban Pantry, Canberra and shopping for gourmet ingredients at The Old Bus Depot Sunday Markets, Canberra.

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